Summertime

The summer has come and gone with a lot of climbing in between. I did a fantastic 8b+ in Zillertal in June called Coque Au Vin. Tobi and I worked it for a few sessions and then it went down pretty easily, though I did fall from the last possible place to fall.

Chris Rauch on Coque au Vin (8b+)
Sometimes you just have to roll with the punches — send it the rain 😉

Claudia and I had a great weekend at the Bergstation a little later and despite miserable weather, I was able to wrap up a few 8a+s and prove to myself that I was actually in pretty good shape, despite all the bouldering I had been doing as of late. I spent a lot of time working on Clockwork Orange (8A), but I think that it was a bit warm still.

Sometimes, you just need to get stronger and focus on the training to make sure you can reach your long-term goals. I have definitely been doing that recently just to gain some strength in the fingers and up my endurance at the same time. Hangboarding is always important for me in this regard.

Lock off training for me is always critical

Some of these sessions helped me to get my finger strength up enough to start working an 8c called Absinth at Sparchen. I worked my way up to it by doing a few of the other classics on that Tequila wall, including Weißglut (8a/+,Spiel Der Meister (a+/b), Schöne neue Welt (right finish) (7c+).

It is great to be there with other psyched people!

Ryan almost sticking the crux move on Spiel Der Meister
Chris Rauch lining up for the crux moves on Absinth (8c)

All-in-all, it has been a really good summer, but I am so happy that the cooler temps are coming! On my way to Zillertal tomorrow with a friend from South Africa! Hopefully will be able to finish off Elements of Addition (8b+). That would be the cherry on top before I head off to Kalymnos to get married and spend a month there wrestling the tufas!

Psych is high!

Here is a stitched together video of me working on Absinth at Sparchen

You get out what you put in

Since winter I have been training exceptionally hard. I’ve had 5 or 6 days in rock this year and done an 8a+ and 8b.

Persona Non Grata (8b)

Suit up!

Hiking in to Achleiten! Is it winter or summer? My body is confused

What made the difference? Motivation? No. Rest! For the last 10 years I’ve been climbing non-stop, sometimes 40 days in a row. I always got stronger but it quickly faded.

For the first time ever, I voluntarily took 3 weeks off and it changed everything. I did a lot of skiing, ate healthily, lost weight and stayed fit. It was not being latent, but being active with another goal in mind. I did 18 days in the snow, most of which were in my own and not relaxing but rather long and intense.

I love to ski, but it is not climbing.

I have spent on average 10 hours a week in the gym doing very specific training and another 4 hours at home before work (weekdays), trying to improve. I’m fighting tooth and nail to be the best version of myself.

Progress is best seen when measured. I measure progress daily. Forward and backwards, always hard but always important.

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My training program from @mescht_klinger has been paying off. Between the intense hangboard sessions and desperate bouldering sessions, I'm certainly seeing an improvement. Had a great little onsight of Powerplay (7b) this weekend at Achleiten and had a great working session on an 8a+ there. Unfortunately, it had one brutally hard move on it that I could not stick otherwise I think it would have gone down in that session. Forcing myself to rest is always the hardest part. I guess I'll go running today instead 😛 @lasportivagram @frictionlabs #alwayspsyched #training #fingerstrength #power #powerendurance #slopers #crimping #notrainnogame #lasportiva #weareclimbers #frictionlabs #chalkmatters #uselessdomore

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If you want to see my schedule or my results, contact me here on my website.