Coming back from Kalymnos was a bit of a shock. The temperatures have dropped and the days have become considerably shorter. But, the good news is that conditions are great as long as it’s not raining.
I’ve had a few days climbing at Karlstein, but most of the time has been spent at Boulderbar recently. I even chose to climb indoors on a Saturday when the weather was nice. Why would I do this? It was the first Boulderbar Boulder Jam and it was a lot of fun. Stephanie and Rene picked me up and we drove through to the boulderbar, it was a promising day and there ended up being 145 participants.
The qualifiers were 40 boulders ranging between 4A and 8A with up to 4 hours to climb them. I met up with Karo Sinnhuber and we had a bunch of fun. I managed 38 of the problems comfortably within 1 hour 30 minutes. The last two I found really tough and chose not to spend too much energy on. As luck would have it, Stephanie, Karo and I made it through to the final 7. Karo topped 39 of the 40 problems, really strong and impressive! I’m glad to see that she is back in form!
When it came to the finals, Adam Ondra set two of the problems.
Adam setting Women’s #3
Demo’ing his problem: Men’s #3
Isolation. Not so much fun but definitely a necessity.
The finals turned out to be fun, but hard. After a long day, I did not have much skin or energy left but I gave it my all. Problem number 1 went down easily enough, but unfortunately, I did not flash it and this cost me a podium in the end.
Boulder #2, a crimp fest that needed some core tension
Boulder #1, a volcano problem
Boulder #3, Adam Ondra’s creation. All I can say is HARD
Stephanie seemed to have a lot of fun in the finals. She kicked ass!
Karo topped all three problems and took the victory! Very inspiring. Always fun to hang out with her and feel the psych.
Thank you Boulderbar for such a great event! Looking forward to the next ones!
Tobi Ebner did a fantastic job with commentary, really built of the energy of the crowd
An amazing delivery from Friction Labs! Thanks Karo and Friction Labs
A few weeks ago I spent some time in Felbertal bouldering with Karo Sinnhuber. It was really great to see her cruise her project, Sunshowers (8A). Karo has had an unlucky year so far with a string of injuries so it was fantastic to see her back in form!
I first met Karo last year in Rocklands. It was great fun to watch her climb, completely destroying everything she touched despite her split tips. She flashed two 7C boulders back to back and made it look effortless!
She climbed an 8B called Fragile Steps on that trip, a tough low ball roof on small holds. Really tricky looking.
by Claudia Ziegler Photography
Night time shoot in Rocklands last year. Karo climbed The Hatchling numerous times, flying down to the pads in the darkness after the camera flash. Photos appearing in Gime Kraft Air
I tried Sunshowers as well and fell off the last tough move during my first session. I spent a few weeks doing some bouldering and hangboarding to build some more power. It guess it worked out pretty well.
Core training… Always important
Working on that lock off strength for the boulder
A few weeks later, I went back on my own and took it down… Solo mission with two pads. I warmed up on the slabs outside, which were wet. After that, I went in and dried the left side of the bloc, which was totally wet. After a few minutes I tried the upper half of the boulder and it felt good.
Photo by Claudia Ziegler Photography
Hard compression moves to setup for the crux.
photo by Claudia Ziegler Photography
The final move…
I had one false start, slipping from the second hold but then I crushed it. Felt amazing. Luckily I caught the send in video!
It was a really special feeling to be able to walk up to this boulder and just know it was going down. I’ve spent many years yearning to climb my first 8A boulder but had been limited due to the distance I needed to drive to find an 8A. I was never in quite good enough shape to just walk up to one and do it. I was always either injured or just didn’t have enough time to be able to dedicate myself to the send. It had been a goal to boulder 8A for the last three years and I finally achieved my goal