Coming back from injury is rarely a pleasant undertaking but it does certainly have some perk, such as renewed psych and focus — not to mention a devout level of masochism.
For the last weeks, I have been dedicating my time to following a training program set up by Kris Peters for Trainingbeta.com: 6 Week Power Endurance Training Program. I have been finding it a bit tough to do all the exercises precisely as set out as the gyms tend to be really busy when I am training, but I am making the best of it. Doing the 4x4s and circuit training is tricky. I never really enjoy running, but hey, sometimes you just need to bite the bullet and do it. Even if it’s below freezing outside…
I have made a few tweaks to it so that I can have a morning hangboard session 4 days a week as well. I have been using a combination of Chris Webb Parsons‘ program and Kris Hampton’s program.
I made a tweak to the CWP program by exchanging a fixed sling for a counterweight on a pulley. The first week I needed to use a 10kg counterweight but was down to 5kg on the second week.
With the Kris Hampton program, I was able to make massive gains by the 3rd week where I actually hit some personal bests on the Beastmaker.
The results have been really positive so far; my finger strength is really good, my fitness is improving and my gym climbing is getting better than it usually is. I don’t think I have fallen off of anything under 7a+ in the gym and flashed a 7b+ during my second week back, so that’s something at least.
Let’s see how it translates to rock as I progress.
I did manage to set a few personal bests on my Beastmaker:
- 3 x 8 seconds on the Beastmaker 2000 crimps with +20kg
- 3 x 8 seconds on the Beastmaker Micro 10mm with +10kg
- 8 seconds on the Beastmaker Micro 8mm with +10kg
There were two days that really stood out to me last month, they were on a weekend where the weather was not so good and we spent the time indoors.
17 March
I have been using the Beastmaker app as a warmup for my hangboard sessions. I start with anything between 6C and 7B as the warmup and try to spend some time on the 45-degree slopers as well.
I found myself frequently tired when I would hangboard in the morning and then go to the gym in the afternoon. It was no different when Claudia and I met our friends as the Kletterhalle Salzburg. Still had a great time there and enjoyed the route setting. I managed 6c+, 7a+, 3 7b flashes, 1-hang on 7b and 7b+, tried two 8a routes but was too tired to lock off effectively after a CWP session in the morning.
18 March –> Boulderwelt OST
I enjoyed some normal bouldering in the gym, exploring some of the problems from their Big Fat Boulder Session. Over the course of two days, I managed to do about 32 problems, but some of them were just way beyond me.
It was a really quick session on the day and I found myself racing around the gym trying to climb efficiently with a high level of focus.
Tried Orgasmatron (8A) and found it inspiring but hard… Will be back
Wrestling with an Alligator (8B)… Inpiring!
The time I’ve spent outdoors recently has been great. I was in Maltatal recently for a bit of bouldering, that was great fun.
Alligator Corner (7C) was fun to try but had way too little skin
Claudia and I had some fun back in Salzburg recently and I was able to put in some time on an old project Nachtschicht. Here’s a quick video from the day:
We spent some time in Arco as part of the Arco Rock Stars photo competition. It was a cool weekend, well, not cool, REALLY warm weekend.
Claudia hiking to the crag in Arco
Claudia capturing the moment with Sofie
A quick selfie with Roger after the onsight of Fun de Chichunne
