Get your train on!

 

Coming back from injury is rarely a pleasant undertaking but it does certainly have some perk, such as renewed psych and focus — not to mention a devout level of masochism.

For the last weeks,  I have been dedicating my time to following a training program set up by Kris Peters for Trainingbeta.com: 6 Week Power Endurance Training Program. I have been finding it a bit tough to do all the exercises precisely as set out as the gyms tend to be really busy when I am training, but I am making the best of it. Doing the 4x4s and circuit training is tricky. I never really enjoy running, but hey, sometimes you just need to bite the bullet and do it. Even if it’s below freezing outside…

I have made a few tweaks to it so that I can have a morning hangboard session 4 days a week as well. I have been using a combination of Chris Webb Parsons‘ program and Kris Hampton’s program.

I made a tweak to the CWP program by exchanging a fixed sling for a counterweight on a pulley. The first week I needed to use a 10kg counterweight but was down to 5kg on the second week.

With the Kris Hampton program, I was able to make massive gains by the 3rd week where I actually hit some personal bests on the Beastmaker.

The results have been really positive so far; my finger strength is really good, my fitness is improving and my gym climbing is getting better than it usually is. I don’t think I have fallen off of anything under 7a+ in the gym and flashed a 7b+ during my second week back, so that’s something at least.

Let’s see how it translates to rock as I progress.

I did manage to set a few personal bests on my Beastmaker:

  • 3 x 8 seconds on the Beastmaker 2000 crimps with +20kg
  • 3 x 8 seconds on the Beastmaker Micro 10mm with +10kg
  • 8 seconds on the Beastmaker Micro 8mm with +10kg

There were two days that really stood out to me last month, they were on a weekend where the weather was not so good and we spent the time indoors.

17 March

I have been using the Beastmaker app as a warmup for my hangboard sessions. I start with anything between 6C and 7B as the warmup and try to spend some time on the 45-degree slopers as well.

 

I found myself frequently tired when I would hangboard in the morning and then go to the gym in the afternoon. It was no different when Claudia and I met our friends as the Kletterhalle Salzburg. Still had a great time there and enjoyed the route setting. I managed 6c+, 7a+, 3 7b flashes, 1-hang on 7b and 7b+, tried two 8a routes but was too tired to lock off effectively after a CWP session in the morning.

18 March –> Boulderwelt OST

I enjoyed some normal bouldering in the gym, exploring some of the problems from their Big Fat Boulder Session. Over the course of two days, I managed to do about 32 problems, but some of them were just way beyond me.

It was a really quick session on the day and I found myself racing around the gym trying to climb efficiently with a high level of focus.

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Tried Orgasmatron (8A) and found it inspiring but hard… Will be back

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Wrestling with an Alligator (8B)… Inpiring!

 

The time I’ve spent outdoors recently has been great. I was in Maltatal recently for a bit of bouldering, that was great fun.

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Alligator Corner (7C) was fun to try but had way too little skin

 

Claudia and I had some fun back in Salzburg recently and I was able to put in some time on an old project Nachtschicht. Here’s a quick video from the day:

We spent some time in Arco as part of the Arco Rock Stars photo competition. It was a cool weekend, well, not cool, REALLY warm weekend.

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Claudia hiking to the crag in Arco

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Claudia capturing the moment with Sofie

 

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