Ticking the an 8a a weekend is good for the heart

Over the last three weeks I’ve been having a great time! Repeated Jack of All Trades (8a) at the end of a tiring weekend on Shear Force (8c). I was feeling so beat down by Shear Force but somehow I found the psych to jump on Jack and walked up it. Felt good to repeat it after more than a year of not having been on it.

Spent the week after that training pretty hard at home and at the boulder cave. Lots of power problems concluding the evening with add on up to 30 moves.

After the week’s training, I was able to do the second ascent of Andrew’s new line Cock or Bollock (8a) at Chosspile. I got shut down on Violent Streak (8b) due to the warm and muggy temps but it was pretty cool to send a new line in a weekend. Should have done it in a session but I didn’t have the best sequence so I kept slipping. Irene gave me a little present! Check these out!

Mopani worms! Sending food!

Mopani worms! Sending food!


Shear Force! WOW

Shear Force! WOW

This past weekend I was back in Boven with Andrew. I nabbed a quick ascent of Joy Division in Boven, another 8a that almost no one climbs. So much fun! The wall is an almost blank, dead vertical face with a really technical crux. I did it first red point attempt; the other two I was placing draws and figuring out the movement.

I also got two new high points on Shear Force (8c) linking up into the crux moves on my last try of the weekend. I also figured out how to really dial down the crux through a series of toe hooks. I feel like I’m about two weeks behind Andrew, who fell off the last hold in the crux on Sunday!

Joy Division (8a)

Joy Division (8a)

But why's the rum gone?!? Gustav shared some rum from Reunion with me for my 30th

But why’s the rum gone?!? Gustav shared some rum from Reunion with me for my 30th

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