The Road Back

I’ve been putting off this post, waiting to have something great to write about. However, it seems the longer I wait, the more projects I have to work on, which is great! It just means that I have to find some sort of focus in between. The big ticks for me this winter need to be at least two or three of my winter projects. Each of them has a story to tell and each of them is special. The problem is that the winter season is almost halfway finished and I’m just getting back my form.

Violent Streak (8b) Andrew opened this line at the Man Cave at Chosspile two years ago. I’ve given it a bit of effort here and there but last time I was on it I fell on the last hard move in the crux. Basically one move from the send. I have a movie in progress for this guy!

Shadowfax (8b+) Another Andrew Pedley line. Last season I unlocked my beta just two weeks before it got too warm to climb. It’s very bouldery and powerful and requires massive core tension. I think that my yoga sessions will be great for this! Was just one move away from it last season, but I’m not nearly as close this year due to the number of injuries I’ve had.

Rolihlahla (8b) What a beautiful line. Scares the shit out of me every time. Perhaps some of you remember that clip of Sasha falling upside down into the column. That wasn’t bad belaying, it was simply bad luck and it’s quite a swing on the traverse. I’ve given this line 4 tries this year and one was a good effort, I fell off on on the crux move before  the traverse. The sting in the tail is a big fear for me but I think I’ll be able to man up and do it once I get through. I managed to stick the crux move from the ground this weekend 🙂 Great fun! I’ve linked a great deal of the route. I think I have a really good chance the next time I’m on it with fresh skin!!!

Sticking the crux move

Sticking the crux move

Climbing the crux

Climbing the crux

Fun times

Fun times


Future Life (8b) The most insane movement and beauty of any of the lines. Fell off one move before the good holds and the 7c+ portion of the route. I know that Andrew has a vendetta with Digital Warfare (8b+) so I’ll tag along and finish off this beauty!

I’ve been training seriously hard recently! Boulder problems on the hangboards, campusing, weighted hangs, yoga. It’s been fantastic!

Here is an account of my day last Tuesday from Facebook:

An hour of weight vest (10kg) circuit training on the 45 at Mimosa. Playing add on by myself up to 30 moves. The objective was to start a minute after my feet hit the ground (had to rest up to 2 minutes for my last two sets)
Came home and did an hour of finger pyramids on the Beastmaker. Slopers, middle 2, front, back 2, crimps. Each for 5,7,9,11,9,7,5 seconds with 1 minute rest in between grip positions. 10 minutes between sets. 3 sets.
Then the Chris Webb Parson training session week 4: 10 seconds per hand on the outer (good) slots on the Beastmaker with a rope to assist. Limited aid was required for some of the attempts
To conclude, an hour of power yoga which involved some serious shaking limbs and now pure exhaustion and fatigue.



Boulder training on the boards. I was trying something interesting, cutting my feet loose after each move.



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