The last month has been wonderful. I’ve made a big change in my life in that I’ve transitioned from Edelrid and Vaude across to La Sportiva, Wild Country, DMM and Roca. Outward Ventures has been very kind to me in the past, thanks to Tristan at Vertigo Gear. It has been very exciting as I have been flipping through lists of available gear. I have a long list of new toys that are coming my way in the next few months, one of which stands out above the others: The La Sportiva Futuras. I’ll be reviewing them in a South African, non-bouldering, context. I foresee them performing wonderfully in the Magaliesberg, not so sure about Boven but time will tell.
I have a pair of Pythons in the mail that I’m going to be trying out this weekend at Chosspile. VERY EXCITED. From what I’ve read they are fantastically soft and high-performing slippers that are adept at heel- and toe-hooking, perfect for steep lines like Shadowfax and the projects in the Man Cave!
A few weeks ago I found myself at the Black Diamond Tradathon 2013 in the Magaliesberg. I made a short film about two of the sends I had on the day. I climbed a few awesome lines, starting with Black Karma (24), then moving on to Twilight Floozy (30) and Ivory Madonna (25). All of these lines are fantastic climbs. It’s possible that I made the third ascent of Twilight Floozy which was opened in 1992 by Richard Lord and repeated by Paul Brouard in 1994. It’s a brick-hard boulder problem with a massive span and a dyno from some really poor holds.
Ivory Madonna was also a lot of fun, it has a few fiddly pieces of gear that are really solid if you can find them.
On the Sunday I spent time on Terminator II (30) by was thwarted by the sun on the small, polished holds. It should be easy enough to do next time I’m in the area.