New Countries, New Sends

I guess you could say that the training that I have been doing for the past months certainly paid off. It was a lot of time doing my own thing, before work and after work, many days a week.

I had never been to Switzerland before, but I had been dreaming about it for years. It did not disappoint! Chironico was amazing and Magic Wood was, well, MAGIC!

Chironico’s weather was a little less than perfect though. As soon as I got really close to sending some 8A projects, it started to rain, a lot. It just means that I need to go back for more. I managed to send a really cool technical boulder called Fat Boy (7C+) in a session, first 7C+ in a session! Kneebars for the win!!

Fat Boy (7C+)

Magic Wood was really fun too! In a day, I managed to do two 7C, a 7B+ and a 7A. Not bad at all!

Höhenzone (7C)
On the send of Supernova (7C) in Magic Wood

The bouldering was not the only highlight of the trip. It was amazing to spend time with great people! There was never a shortage of psych or laughs. Tobi made a fantastic movie about our time there, in between sending 3 8A boulders in a week.

Some very cool highlights of our time in Switzerland

After being rained out in Swizz, we made a quick stop back in Austria. I managed to tick off a side project of mine Die Rose Der Zeit (8b) at the Geisterschmiedwand.

Morocco

Sitting in the airport… I wonder where we are going now!

The next part of the journey found us in Morocco. This was absolutely incredible. The team was a really good mix. Said Belhaj, Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll, Inbal Katznelson, Mehdi Allam and of course Claudia Ziegler.

The following section has photos from Claudia Ziegler Photography

The culture in Morocco was really special. Said, being a very talented musician, took us to a private performance of some incredible artists. I was thoroughly impressed and well-fed! We had home-made couscous from a tagine and it was incredible!

The crack climbing in Tafraout is really good. I would certainly recommend it. Just do not forget to take the really big cams if you want to feel safe.

This route was the highlight of my trip, we had to wake up before 5am in Tafraout in order to catch the good temps, it went into the sun around 7 so it was a tight schedule. Said did the first ascent followed by Sean and eventually me. Very proud of this one.

In the end, we drove through to Agadir and spent two nights at the coast. We even did some surfing and I figured out how to ride the waves! It was certainly a very good trip overall.

The team! Group photo!

You get out what you put in

Since winter I have been training exceptionally hard. I’ve had 5 or 6 days in rock this year and done an 8a+ and 8b.

Persona Non Grata (8b)

Suit up!

Hiking in to Achleiten! Is it winter or summer? My body is confused

What made the difference? Motivation? No. Rest! For the last 10 years I’ve been climbing non-stop, sometimes 40 days in a row. I always got stronger but it quickly faded.

For the first time ever, I voluntarily took 3 weeks off and it changed everything. I did a lot of skiing, ate healthily, lost weight and stayed fit. It was not being latent, but being active with another goal in mind. I did 18 days in the snow, most of which were in my own and not relaxing but rather long and intense.

I love to ski, but it is not climbing.

I have spent on average 10 hours a week in the gym doing very specific training and another 4 hours at home before work (weekdays), trying to improve. I’m fighting tooth and nail to be the best version of myself.

Progress is best seen when measured. I measure progress daily. Forward and backwards, always hard but always important.

View this post on Instagram

My training program from @mescht_klinger has been paying off. Between the intense hangboard sessions and desperate bouldering sessions, I'm certainly seeing an improvement. Had a great little onsight of Powerplay (7b) this weekend at Achleiten and had a great working session on an 8a+ there. Unfortunately, it had one brutally hard move on it that I could not stick otherwise I think it would have gone down in that session. Forcing myself to rest is always the hardest part. I guess I'll go running today instead 😛 @lasportivagram @frictionlabs #alwayspsyched #training #fingerstrength #power #powerendurance #slopers #crimping #notrainnogame #lasportiva #weareclimbers #frictionlabs #chalkmatters #uselessdomore

A post shared by Brian Weaver (@brianmweaver) on

If you want to see my schedule or my results, contact me here on my website.

Winter is fun!

The winter started off with a trip to Croatia. Admittedly, it didn’t go quite the way I planned. I thought I was really strong and for, turned out I was a bit burned out after a long year which made it increasingly difficult to perform.

Failing repeatedly on Nairobi (8a) was not what I planned

Gerhard Hörhager bolting an extension to Export – Import in Čiritež

IMG-20181227-WA0014.jpg

Enjoying the sunset in Čiritež

Rest day fun

I very often attach the quality of a trip to the successes that I have on it. I onsighted a few hard routes and did an 8a+, but that was really not enough for me for two weeks. I kept falling on the same sequence on an 8b and then it got worse when I fell on the same move of an 8a for the days.

IMG_20181224_091330_638.jpg

Life is all about perspective. Looking through the lens of belay glasses is pretty normal for sport climbers

The scenery was brilliant and getting to know Geri was cool too. The most awesome part was Christmas with Claudia and New Year’s Eve afterwards.

Me and Claudia having some fun on Christmas

Pull yourself together Brian!

We’ve had another good year of snow which allowed me to take a much needed break from climbing. I really needed the three weeks off to clear my mind.

So far, I’ve had about 14 days on snow this season, including my first taste of deeper snow, and I must say: I love it. Bought two pairs of skis so that I could get the most out of my time and really have fun. I feel grateful to have this opportunity in front of me. I never knew what I was missing living in an area with no snow.

At -18 degrees, it was certainly an adventure

It’s great to know that when the weather is bad I can just grab my skis and head out for a few hours. Even when the weather is great…

Catching a bit of powder in Westendorf

The psych is high

It’s been a while since I’ve really been excited about climbing. The weird thing is that I haven’t sent anything hard this year. All the tough routes have been done pretty fast.

Just sent Burger King (8a)

But at the same time, I’ve invested some proper time into training. I feel strong, I feel psyched and I feel like my not even close tu my max.

Progress is hard. Success is harder…

I’ve put in so many hours that I can’t imagine the sum. I’m feeling like I’m in the right shape to climb 8c or 8c+.

Wagnis Orange is a famous 8c, the first in Austria.

I’m getting closer to sending it… Not there yet but close.

Fight hard! This is the end of the 8A boulder that starts the route

I’m pretty psyched… Stay tuned for more

France and the Training psych

Going to France with Andrew was an amazing experience. It was the first time in the last year that I felt relaxed while I was climbing.

I’ve been putting myself under quite a bit of pressure this year trying to find the balance that I completely lost the love I felt for climbing. I think that the root cause stemmed from the surgery on my thumb at the beginning of the year which slowed everything down.

Gorge du Tarn really let me let go and just climb.

Enter a caption

 

Tennesse in the morning

 

There is always a light at the end of the tunnel… Just better hope it’s not headlights

 

Tennessee Sector! The best!

 

20180911_125327.jpg

Lunch time!

 

After France, I was really fit and very motivated. I met up with my trainer and we talked about some goals for the rest of the year.

I’m keen to get stronger. That is what everyone says, but I mean specifically stronger. I’m working a bouldery 8c and a few bouldery 8b routes at the moment so I need to increase my finger strength and contact strength. After 2 weeks on pocket jugs in France, it needed a little work.

I have been campusing and hangboarding, in between bouldering sessions.

Even managed to head out to Zillertal for some bouldering when I managed a few good ascents in a day.

Still have plenty to go back for including these two!

Karo trying to keep the boulder cool!

The result is being able to climb all the sequences in my 8c project and feeling like I can manage it without an extreme amount of time. Too bad it’s always wet! Will keep up the training and the psych! #alwayspsyched

Well, train trip is almost over, heading to Zillertal now to have some fun bouldering on a rope!

Have a good autumn everyone!

 

Long weekend in the Frankenjura

DMM Wales was hosted a weekend for the team in the Frankenjura with a great a gear demo and some great times at the Eichler Campsite.

It was a real treat to be able to connect with the team and also to test some gear. I had a few older pieces of webbing that were a bit worn. As a result, they failed at less than half the rated load. A good lesson for me to learn : don’t take chances with your old gear, especially the fabric.

Metal gear is generally really durable. My 5 year old carabiner failed at almost its rated level.

Putting the gear to the test!

On the Sunday, the DMM crew hung out at Martinswand.

I managed to climb a few easier lines and did a 7c rally quickly. Great fun. Tried a really fun 8a+ a few times but needed a bit more energy than what I had available.

Die Apokalyptische Reiter 7c

Forcing my way through the dihedral

It was fantastic!

On the Monday, I was able to give Slimline (8a+) a few tries. It felt so good! Must go back for it! One of the best short routes ever.

Even gave Action Direct (9a) a try, just to feel the holds!

That about sums up how I felt on Action Direct

It was great to catch up with Said Belhaj as well. He and his friend Erik Massih were in the Frankenjura and got the chance to hang out with them. Really fun, light hearted guys! And crushers… Looking forward to seeing everyone at the Outdoor Trade Show in June!

Get your train on!

 

Coming back from injury is rarely a pleasant undertaking but it does certainly have some perk, such as renewed psych and focus — not to mention a devout level of masochism.

For the last weeks,  I have been dedicating my time to following a training program set up by Kris Peters for Trainingbeta.com: 6 Week Power Endurance Training Program. I have been finding it a bit tough to do all the exercises precisely as set out as the gyms tend to be really busy when I am training, but I am making the best of it. Doing the 4x4s and circuit training is tricky. I never really enjoy running, but hey, sometimes you just need to bite the bullet and do it. Even if it’s below freezing outside…

I have made a few tweaks to it so that I can have a morning hangboard session 4 days a week as well. I have been using a combination of Chris Webb Parsons‘ program and Kris Hampton’s program.

I made a tweak to the CWP program by exchanging a fixed sling for a counterweight on a pulley. The first week I needed to use a 10kg counterweight but was down to 5kg on the second week.

With the Kris Hampton program, I was able to make massive gains by the 3rd week where I actually hit some personal bests on the Beastmaker.

The results have been really positive so far; my finger strength is really good, my fitness is improving and my gym climbing is getting better than it usually is. I don’t think I have fallen off of anything under 7a+ in the gym and flashed a 7b+ during my second week back, so that’s something at least.

Let’s see how it translates to rock as I progress.

I did manage to set a few personal bests on my Beastmaker:

  • 3 x 8 seconds on the Beastmaker 2000 crimps with +20kg
  • 3 x 8 seconds on the Beastmaker Micro 10mm with +10kg
  • 8 seconds on the Beastmaker Micro 8mm with +10kg

There were two days that really stood out to me last month, they were on a weekend where the weather was not so good and we spent the time indoors.

17 March

I have been using the Beastmaker app as a warmup for my hangboard sessions. I start with anything between 6C and 7B as the warmup and try to spend some time on the 45-degree slopers as well.

 

I found myself frequently tired when I would hangboard in the morning and then go to the gym in the afternoon. It was no different when Claudia and I met our friends as the Kletterhalle Salzburg. Still had a great time there and enjoyed the route setting. I managed 6c+, 7a+, 3 7b flashes, 1-hang on 7b and 7b+, tried two 8a routes but was too tired to lock off effectively after a CWP session in the morning.

18 March –> Boulderwelt OST

I enjoyed some normal bouldering in the gym, exploring some of the problems from their Big Fat Boulder Session. Over the course of two days, I managed to do about 32 problems, but some of them were just way beyond me.

It was a really quick session on the day and I found myself racing around the gym trying to climb efficiently with a high level of focus.

20180406_164124

 

20180407_11240820180408_163925

20180407_140153

Tried Orgasmatron (8A) and found it inspiring but hard… Will be back

20180408_170233

Wrestling with an Alligator (8B)… Inpiring!

 

The time I’ve spent outdoors recently has been great. I was in Maltatal recently for a bit of bouldering, that was great fun.

IMG_3242IMG_3236 (2)

IMG_3239

Alligator Corner (7C) was fun to try but had way too little skin

 

Claudia and I had some fun back in Salzburg recently and I was able to put in some time on an old project Nachtschicht. Here’s a quick video from the day:

We spent some time in Arco as part of the Arco Rock Stars photo competition. It was a cool weekend, well, not cool, REALLY warm weekend.

20180422_131623

Claudia hiking to the crag in Arco

20180421_090237

Claudia capturing the moment with Sofie

 

claudiaziegler_ZIC6313claudiaziegler_ZIC6360claudiaziegler_ZIC6455claudiaziegler_ZIC6673claudiaziegler_ZIC7176-Bearbeitetclaudiaziegler_ZIC5498claudiaziegler_ZIC5544-Bearbeitet